Wearing Black Suits To Interviews

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People ask us, again and again, what is wrong with wearing a black suit to an interview?
Black is a color most often associated with formality and elegance. In an interview setting, black is too severe and somber. The interview experience needs a warmer, friendlier dress format.

Go to any major business center in any major North American city. You will see the most commonly worn suits in the corporate world are blue, followed by grey. Preferred shirts are pale blue followed by white with a subtle pattern.

Wear black suits with confidence to formal events; Balls, formal evenings and life cycle events such as weddings, communions and bar mitzvahs. Note that tuxedos and tails are almost always black to provide an air of elegance and sophistication.

If a black suit is your only option for the interview, soften the look with a pale blue shirt or a shirt with a soft pattern. Wear a tie with a pattern, not a solid color. Avoid formal ties, with too much black, white or silver.

How to Match a Pocket Square

Question:
Your view of pocket squares? Matching color to tie? to shirt? or not matching to any of the above. Solid color, Flowered print, Muli colored. What is your opinion. Thanks, Ken

Reply:
The answer is a resounding yes! All your suggestions work depending on the look you want to achieve. The solid color pocket square usually matches the shirt or one of the colors in the tie and is a dressier presentation. A multi-color puff should match your outfit like a floral couch in your living room goes with striped wall paper and a high quality Persian rug. The multi-color puff should be placed into the jacket pocket in a square format.

Flat or Pleated Pants with Double Breasted Suit?

Question:
Can flat-front pants be worn with a double-breasted suit, or is it always double-breast+pleated trousers?

Reply:
The convential combination whether you are looking back at the 20's and 30's or if you are looking at recent fashion trends has always been a pleated pant with a double breasted jacket. You can always decide to express your own style and wear something that is a little less conventional which is what all fashion designers and artists do. But.. in my opinion, the reason we have always seen pleated pants with a double breasted jacket is simply the combination is more balanced than it would appear with a flat fron pant. A pleated pant and a DB jacket are both a fuller look which is contrary to the look of the flat front pant.

The Rules of Interview Fashion - Dress For An Interview (Pt. 2)

Rule 2: Err Towards Formality
It is harder to overcome being underdressed than being overdressed
Dress like a professional and you will feel like a professional

If you feel overdressed

• Don't Panic: You're sending a strong message about taking the position seriously
  
• Politely tell the interviewer that the casual dress code gives the office a warm and familiar atmosphere that you would like to be a part of
  
• If you can, discretely remove your jacket and drape it over your chair

If You feel underdressed

• Maintain a professional demeanor, to compensate for informal attire
  
• Maintain an erect posture
  
• Speak formally (avoiding colloquialisms and words such as "like" and "you know").
  
• Mention that you were misinformed about the dress code and you look forward to dressing more professionally

The Rules of Interview Fashion - Dress For An Interview (Pt. 1)

Rule 1: Research Ahead

Choosing the right interview attire is not alchemy.
It's a matter of knowing the corporate culture and the position's demands.

Check out the website

• Many corporate websites will show images of employees in their work routines. Use this as a clue. Also, review the career section for comments on interview etiquette.

Go to the source

• Visit ahead of time to observe the workers in context. If dress is casual, be sure that it's not a dress down day such as Casual Friday. If you have any doubt call HR to ask what is expected.
• Many companies expect professional attire for interviews even though the office dress code is quite casual.

Consider the type of position you are applying for

• Creative positions such as advertising and design may allow for a more liberal look.
  
• Positions involving high-level consultations, or meetings with important clients may require a classical professional look. If you are unsure of what standards to apply, ask a business dress expert

Business Attire VS Smart Casual

"Business attire" is a full suit with matching pants, a dress shirt and tie. It differs from the type of outfit you might wear to a wedding or evening event. It is conservative, designed to be sharp but not flashy, and elegant but not overly formal. The idea is to showcase the individual, not the clothes.

"Smart casual" is a more relaxed, yet professional look. Pressed pants, a collared shirt, and clean, matching accessories. A sport coat will add a touch of class to a casual look. Avoid jeans, sneakers and T-shirts. You should never dress completely casual to an interview.

Look Professional: Jacket and Pants

Business Attire VS Smart Casual

Mid to Dark colored suit

• Solid Navy or Grey are best, you can consider a subtle stripe.
  
• More prominent stripes are appropriate only for higher level executive positions
  
• Black suits are more formal and austere. If you do wear black, soften the look with a blue shirt.

Pants: Must match jacket

• Pleated pants have a more classical look
  
• Flat front pants have a slimming, modern look, but may look awkward on larger men.
  
• Suit pants and jacket MUST be tailored from identical fabric.
  

VERSUS

Khakis or slacks

• Always with a crisp crease
  
• Cotton, wool or micro-fiber
  
• Darker colors are dressier
  
• Lighter colors are more casual
  
• Avoid jeans or cargo pants
  

Sport coat or blazer:

• Makes a casual look a bit more formal
  
• Can be removed for a more casual look
  
• Choose a jacket in a solid shade or a subtle design (no bold, bright patterns or colors)

Look Professional: Shirts and Ties

Business Attire VS Smart Casual

Dress shirt:

• Shades of light to mid blue are most effective. If you choose another color, pastels are safest.
  
• Subtle patterns are fine
  
• White shirts create a more formal look

Silk Tie: Keep it subtle

• Should coordinate with suit and shirt
  
• Patterns in your shirt, tie and suit will fight each other unless they are different designs and size

* Need help getting the right tie knots? Go to: www.ExecStyle.com/TieKnots.asp

Casual Shirts:

• Long-sleeved are more business oriented
  
• Button-down is a neater look
  
• Cotton or cotton-blend
  
• Solid pastels or small subtle patterns subdued patterns
  
• Crisp, clean and pressed
  
• Avoid T-Shirts and black
  

Sweaters:

• Sweater alone or under a sport coat is a great look
  
• Never a sweatshirt
  

Tie:

• Adds a touch of elegance

Look Professional: Shoes, Socks, Belts

Business Attire VS Smart Casual

Shoes:

• Clean, polished and black
  
• Burgundy or brown are fashionable, but a little risky for an interview
• Stick to black unless your matching skills are excellent.
  

Belt:

• Should match shoe color
  
• Avoid overly large or flashy belts

Socks:

• Coordinate with suit
  
• Same shade or a shade darker
  
• Solid or with a subtle design
  
• Never wear athletic socks.

Shoes:

• Clean, polished leather
  
• Avoid sneakers and boots

Belt:

• Coordinate with shoes
  
• Avoid overly large or flashy belts

Socks:

• No bright pastel colors
• Use muted tones
• Don't be remembered for your socks!

Look Professional: Accessories

Complete the professional look
Bring a conservative briefcase or leather binder
Should put everything you need at easy access:Reference letters, resume copies, notepad- High quality pen: Simple, nice, not overly ornate

Avoid accessories associated with students
Backpacks. Overly colorful, branded or ornate notebooks and binders

Accessories should complement your professional look, but not distract the interviewer.

The Right Suit: Fabric

Wool
A quality wool is the most appropriate fabric for your interview. Wool is resilient, crease resistant, drapes well and is relatively long wearing. Wool breathes, is comfortable in a wider range of temperatures and has an elegance that cannot be duplicated.

Other Fabrics
Fabrics such as silks, linen, rayon have their place in a less formal environment where one wishes to make a fashion statement. Polyester on its own or blended with wool can be presentable but may feel like you are wearing a plastic bag. It is also likely to pill. A quality microfiber, a fine fiber woven from polyester or a polyester blend, can be woven to breathe reasonably well but does not have the elegance of wool.

The Right Suit: Style

Choosing The Right Suit: Style

Color / Pattern

• For entry or mid-level positions, dark grey and navy suits are best.
  
• Black is more formal and austere.
  
• Solid colored suits are best. Subtle stripes are fine. Avoid flashy patterns.
  
• Strong stripes convey authority and are appropriate for higher level positions.

Single vs. Double Breasted

Choose a 2 or 3 button single breasted suit. Double breasted suits will look sloppy
worn open, and are not considered main stream in the corporate climate.

Buttons

• 3-button suits will look best on a taller, slimmer man.
  
• 2-Button suits will have a slimming effect on a shorter, stockier man.

The Right Suit: Fitting

Choosing The Right Suit: Fitting

Jacket:

Jacket Length

• Should just cover crotch and seat of pants. Can hang 1-2" longer

Collar

• Should fit snuggly against back of neck. Allow 1/4 - 1/2" of shirt collar to show
  
• Back of jacket should lie flat against back below the collar

Body of Jacket

• Should not be overly tight. Allow for some play when jacket is buttoned
  
• A slight break on the back beside the armhole is fine, allowing for movement

Sleeve Length

• Sleeve should come to the base of the palm when arms are at your sides
  
• Shirt cuffs should show 1/4 - 1/2"

Note: It is very common for arms to be different lengths. Sleeves should be
tailored to fit each arm.

Suit Pants:

• Pant should sit comfortably on the waist, just above the hips.
  
• Pleats should not open. If pants are flat front, watch that pockets do not gape.
  These are both indications that the pant is tight on the seat.
  
• Pant length should reach the heel in back or up to 1/2" shorter.
  Allow for a small break in the front.
  
• Pleated pants can be worn with or without cuffs.
  
• Flat front pants should be finished with plain bottoms.

How Do I Get Rid Of Suit Odor?

Question:
Some of my wool suits smell as though they are sweat stained or in need of cleaning even after they have been dry cleaned. These are all top line and fairly expensive items. What is causing this? Is there ever a time when the lining within the jacket and trousers can/should be replaced? Thanks.


Reply:
This is a question that I would take to a large, very professional dry cleaner. The Better Business Bureau might be able to lead you to someone in the business that can respond to your question. But following are some of my thoughts. Before you go to any expense try a different cleaner that has an excellent reputation. There are many reasons why a cleaner can perform poorly. The odor you may be experiencing may be mildew. If dry cleaning does not remove the odor try airing the garment outdoors for several days. If this does not work some cleaners that deal with cleaning clothing after a fire have an ozone room which generally can get rid of some very offensive smells. Try to find one of these guys in your neighborhood.

The lining does not have to be replaced unless it is torn to a point where it cannot be repaired. The odor is imbedded in the fabric, canvas etc. Replacing the lining will not solve your problem.