Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Make my 5'4" Husband look 6'3"


Q: My husband is 5' 4" tall, has short legs (29") and a bit of a round belly. How do I choose shirts and pants that don't cause his belly to protrude to the point of making him look pregnant??? (other than helping him stick to his diet ;) I LOVED your instructions for fitting dress shirts and the conversion for sports shirt. THANK YOU!!!
Debbie

A: Just follow a few simple rules and your husband will look like he is 6'3" and have the waist of a fashion model. By the way, he should always look 6' 3" to you anyhow, we will try to make him look that way to the rest of the world. A few simple rules to hide a protruding mid section for those who are vertically challenged:

- Never wear prominent checks

- Tastefully selected stripes are good

- Refrain from combining highly contrasting tops and bottoms.

- Do not wear pants that are excessively tapered. The width of the pant should land just before the ball of the foot

- Do not wear tight fitting tops. A slightly loose fit, particularly around the shoulders will reduce the protrusion of the mid section.

- Wearing a sport jacket with a little extra shoulder is a good idea.

- Stay away from cuffed bottoms on pants as well as turned up jeans. They will make the legs look even shorter.

- Keep pants a touch longer rather than short.

Please let me know how this works out.

Thin and Lanky



Q: I am 6'2 very lanky and thin, my waist is just 30, what should be my dress code.

A: The obvious comment is to stay away from striped clothing. Wear tops that are blouson and do not tuck them in. Wear pants that are a fuller cut. Never wear tight clothing. Colors you choose should not be bright and combinations of color should not have excessive contrast. Let me know how this works for you.







Short Shorts! Short Suit!

Q: I'm 6'4" and see this really nice mellow pinstripe suit that I want to buy. I'm size 43L, and waist is 36 or 37 usually. 2 questions: am I too tall for a pinstripe? Secondly, do I really need a 43XL (they aren't available) or is a 43L good enough (it kind of reaches the wrist and base of my thumb). thanks!

A: Stripes tend to stretch tall guys and make them appear even taller. Vert soft, subdued stripes are fine but prominent stripes will over emphasize your height. At 6' 4" your are a borderline Extra Long. The classic approach to determining the proper length of a suit jacket is to ensure that the jacket covers the crotch and seat. Today's designer suits, however, tend to be shorter than that and are not rule bound so if you are a trendy dresser, don't hesitate to wear a suit a little on the short side.

Please note that arm length has nothing to do with the the length of a suit jacket. If a buddy of yours is the same height, size etc as you but has arms 3" longer than yours, it does not mean that he should wear a jacket to his knees.

Hope this helps.


Friday, July 18, 2008

Danger! Falling Objects


When you walk up a narrow staircase, an escalator or an airplane (exterior) staircase, should a man walk in front or behind the woman.

It depends. If there is no danger of the woman falling it is more appropriate for the man to walk in front of the woman. On an airplane stairwell, which is usually very steep, the man should walk behind the woman. (Source: An Air Canada female flight attendant).

Hello! My Name Is...

When you go to a conference or reception they often give you a nametag with a pin. Do you know where to pin the tag?

The proper place is on your RIGHT side, just above the jacket pocket. That’s because it allows someone who shakes your hand to both look you in the eye while still being able to see your name. They can’t do this if you pin the tag on your left side, as most of us are accustomed to doing.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Dress Codes Explained! - Black Tie


Black Tie

A Black Tie invitation calls for formal attire. Men wear tuxedos, women wear cocktail, long dresses or dressy evening separates.
Formal usually means the same as Black Tie, but in some trendier cities like New York or Los Angeles, it could mean a black shirt, no tie with a tux.

Women wear cocktail, long dresses or dressy evening separates.

Dress Codes Explained! - White Tie


White Tie

A White Tie or Ultra-formal invitation requires men wear full dress, with white tie, vest, shirt. Women wear long gowns.

Dress Codes Explained! - Black Tie Optional


Black Tie Optional

A Black Tie Optional or Black Tie Invited gives you the option of wearing a tuxedo or formal dress, but it should clue you into the formality of the event, meaning a dark suit and tie would be your other option. Women wear cocktail, long dresses or dressy evening separates.

Dress Codes Explained! - Creative Black Tie


Creative Black Tie

Creative Black Tie leaves room for trendy interpretations of formal wear. He can go more modern with a tux -- maybe a black shirt, no tie. She wears long or short dresses or evening separates.
Sometimes, themed parties call for dress codes like Texas Black Tie or other variations of Creative Black Tie. In that situation, you can have more fun with it, choosing a dressy look with a theme (for him, it could be a tux with boots and for her it could be a long dress paired with Southwestern style silver belt and jewelry).

Dress Codes Explained! - Semi-formal


Semi-Formal

Semi-Formal or After Five means that tuxes are not required, nor are long dresses. An evening wedding (after 6 PM) would still dictate dark suits for him, and a cocktail dress for her. Daytime semi-formal events mean a suit for him and an appropriate short dress or dressy suit for her.

Business Formal is the same as Semi-Formal for him, but for women it suggests that women opt for more tailored dressy suits and dresses (nothing too slinky or sexy).

Dress Codes Explained! - Cocktail Attire


Cocktail Attire

Cocktail Attire means short, elegant dresses for her and dark suits for him.

Dress Codes Explained! - Informal


Informal

Informal is often interpreted as the same as Casual but it actually calls for the same dress as Semi-Formal -- dark suits for him, short dresses for her -- especially when associated with a wedding or special event.

Dress Codes Explained! - Festive Attire


Festive Attire

Festive Attire is usually seen around the holidays, with the mood of the party being Informal or Semi-Formal. For her, it means to choose looks with a bit of sparkle or holiday bent (i.e. a beaded sweater with black pants, a red silk blouse with a black skirt).

Dress Codes Explained! - Casual


Casual

Dressy Casual calls for dressed-up versions of casual looks. For him, it could be trousers and a sportcoat, for her a dressy pants look. Jeans, shorts, T-shirts and other casual looks are not appropriate for Dressy Casual. Casual generally means anything goes.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Black Shirt - Grey Suit


Question:
Would a black shirt and tie look good with a grey suit? I really want to wear a grey suit to my dad's wedding but I also want to do something a little different. Thanks.

Answer:
By the tone of your letter I am assuming your intention is to stand out and make a statement at your father's wedding through your choice of clothing. Remember that this event is for your dad and his bride so don't try to take attention away from them. "The clothes make the man" is an old myth. Make yourself shine by being the support for your dad and his bride on this special occasion. Wear an outfit suitable for the event by dressing slightly different from your father and a little dressier than the other invited guests. Don't try to draw attention to yourself by wearing a unique outfit.

Above all have a good time and make sure everyone else does so as well.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Handshakes Around the World

SOCIAL STUDIES – A DAILY MISCELLANY OF INFORMATION

BY

MICHAEL KESTERTON from the Globe and Mail


No air-kissing for execs

Tomorrow will be U.S. National Handshake Day. The training firm that is promoting the idea says: "Get a grip on a professional handshake today! The handshake is an important part of corporate America and can make or break a business deal, interview or other encounter."

Source: Chase's Calendar of Events 2008


World o' handshakes

"As handshakes go, the greeting between President Bush and Gordon Brown was a very odd one," Dr. Peter Collett wrote last week in The Daily Mail. The Prime Minister opted for a conventional shake while the President opted for a more streetwise shake. The result was a tangle with three of Mr. Brown's fingers sliding up Mr. Bush's sleeve. The U.S. President, Dr. Collett added, likes to catch people unawares. Some notes about shaking:


The Queen has developed her own way of informing her subjects that the royal handshake is about to be terminated: she surreptitiously and almost imperceptibly pushes the other person's hand away.


The French are enthusiastic about le handshake. They repeat the gesture with the same people throughout the day.


In West Africa , expect to have your hand grasped for minutes on end while you are bombarded with questions about your well-being.


Chairman Mao had a limp handshake. It didn't say anything about his character.


In certain remote parts of South America and New Guinea , tribesmen greet each other with scrotal handshakes, gently grasping each other's testicles rather than hands.

6 Must-Ask Interview Questions


By: Joe Turner Originally from: monster.com

Interviewing can be a gut-wrenching process. Most books on how to interview list hundreds of questions you need to be ready to answer, but few talk about the questions you need to ask.

Take more control at your next interview by asking some pointed questions of your own. Here are six must-ask questions and why you should know the answers.

1. What happened to the person who previously did this job? (If a new position: How has this job been performed in the past?)

Why You Need to Ask: You need to know any problems or past history associated with this position. For instance, was your predecessor fired, or was he promoted? Is this a temporary position or brand-new? The answer will tell you about management's expectations and how the company is gearing to grow.

2. Why did you choose to work here? What keeps you here?

Why You Need to Ask: Although you may like this company, you're an outsider. You need to find out what an insider has to say about working there. Who better to ask than your interviewer? This also forces the interviewer to step out of their official corporate role and answer personally as an employee and potential coworker.

3. What is the first problem the person you hire must attend to?

Why You Need to Ask: You need to be on the same page as your new manager, as well as be clear on what the initial expectations are and that you can deliver. What you don't want is to allow yourself to be misled about the job’s requirements and end up overwhelmed and over your head after the first week on the job.

4. What can you tell me about the individual to whom I would report?

Why You Need to Ask: It doesn't matter how wonderful the company might be; your time will be spent working for a specific manager. You need to find out who this person is and what kind of manager he is -- earlier rather than later, before personality clashes develop. If you're an independent type used to working through solutions on your own, for instance, you'll chafe when you find you're being supervised by a micromanager.

5. What are the company's five-year sales and profit projections?

Why You Need to Ask: You need to know about the future of the company you plan to spend several years of your life working for. It doesn't have to be this exact question. For example, you might want to ask about the company's future plans for new products and services or any planned market expansion. Of course, you've done your own research, but nothing can beat an insider’s observations and insights. This also shows you've done your homework and are serious about this company.

6. What's our next step?

Why You Need to Ask: This is your closing and the most important question to ask at the end of the interview. You need to know what happens after this point. Many books advise asking for the job now, but most people may feel too intimidated to bluntly do so. And with more candidates already scheduled for interviews, the company is not likely to make you an offer yet. You may also need to do some additional research on the company, making it too early to ask for the job.

A good compromise: Take the lead and set a plan for follow-up. You'll also be able to gauge the company's enthusiasm with the answer. Don't forget to ask for your interviewer’s direct phone number and the best time to call.

What to Remember

As a job seeker, the key to a good interview is to find out as much about your potential employer as possible. Asking these six questions will not only make you appear more committed as a candidate, but will also give you better insight into both the challenges and opportunities that may lie ahead for you.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Wool or Cashmere for Blazer Material


Question:
What is better a wool coat/blend or solid cashmere for a blazer?

Reply:
Cashmere is light in weight for its thickness and provides a higher degree of warmth than other fabrics of similar weight. Good quality cashmere feels and looks very luxurious and plush, more so than almost any other fabric. The disadvantage of cashmere is that it is much more delicate than a good quality wool. What makes a good blazer really depends on the features that are important to you.


Friday, June 27, 2008

Untieing the tie.


Question: Is it OK to keep ties tied for an extended period of time? Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 times to get the exact length I want, and it would seem to be easier to leave it tied once I have the proper length, as long as it doesn't ruin the tie. Thanks.

Reply: The theory is that if you leave your tie knotted for an extended period, it will eventually start to twist and turn and will not hang properly. In practice, this will happen in some but not all cases. When you keep a tie knotted it will certainly become flattened in the area of the knot and you will lose the fullness in the shape. The best advice is to undo your tie when you have finished with it for the day. Always be gentle with it as tie fabrics and construction are often delicate. Hang or roll your ties for storage.


Regular and Long - What's the difference?


Question:
What is the difference in length between regular and long . is it just in the length of the jacket or does it include the sleeves?

Reply:
Generally, the difference between a regular and a long is 1.5" - 2". The sleeves on a long are also proportionately longer. If you are having difficulty determining whether you need a regular or long, most individuals 6 ft and taller wear a long. Note, however, that to truly determine the correct length, view yourself in the mirror and ensure that the jacket covers your crotch area and your seat. More than an inch of excess is too long.


Suspenders - Keeping those pants up

Question: I have a tough time keeping my trousers from slipping and falling down. When I wear a suit I use suspenders and they work fine but any suggestions, when wearing just a pair of dress pants, as to how to keep them up?

Reply:
I suspect that you have a slightly larger mid section which along with gravity are the two major contributors to your falling pant syndrome. The easiest solution and the only one that is really effective is suspenders. Your other alternative is to wear a lower rise pant which will sit below your mid section and consequently either not slip or slip less.



Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Matching a Grey Checkered Suit

Question: Hello, I live in a very informal area, where suits are rarely worn. However, I now need to wear one for an event next week, and only have one option left in my closet. The suit is charcoal grey, with a windowpane plaid design in a lighter grey, and I have no idea what shirt and tie I should wear with this suit. Can you help me with this question? Thank you in advance for any assistance that you can provide. Sincerely, Brad

Reply: Brad you are safe wearing white or sky blue in a shirt. The tie should have a little background color the same as the suit and the contrast colors can be whatever color is in the check. If the check is black or shades of grey then try accent colors in pink or red. Have a great time at the event and if you need any more help let me know.

Matching a Dark Green Suit

Question:
Hi, I just bought a dark green plain suit, and now don't know what color of shirt and tie would be good for it, can you suggest me something? Thanks in advance

Reply:
The easiest color to coordinate with a green plaid suit is cream. Another great alternative is orange. Here are some links to nice quality shirts you might consider:











Monday, June 23, 2008

"That Pesky Tag"

Question:
should the tag on the wrist of an overcoat be removed?

Reply:
Absolutely!

Here's a video we found that explains it quite vividly =).

<div><a href='http://www.omnisio.com'>Share and annotate your videos</a> with Omnisio!</div>

My Beautiful Beach Wedding

Question: I am getting married on a beach in Mexico this April. I am having a problem finding ideas. My bride will be wearing a formal dress, and I want to be casual as possible, but still fit the part. Any suggestions?

Reply
: You lucky guy! Just be sure that when you look back at the pictures 25 years from now you don't say "How did they let me wear that?" Your bride will be formally dressed, so I think you should take the lead from her. Wear a nice beige suit and throw off the jacket when the fun begins. You can wear an elegant shirt for the formal part and have a spare sporty shirt for the fun later.




Updating My Collection


Question: I want to update my closet with a couple of good suits. I wear a suit almost every day, and I have around 8 in the stable now. I need to cull a few and add a couple more. I have owned Warren K Cooks in the past, and found them very well suited, but mostly had made to measure. Now, I really don't want to spend what I have in the past ( The Cooks came to be over $1200 each over 10 years ago). I have a stocky athletic build, and I am not tall, 5'8". I live in an isolated area, so appropriate suits are almost always special order, which adds to the price significantly. Like almost everyone, I love a bargain.

Reply: You need a nice suit as you are accustomed to the quality of Warren K. Cook. I highly recommend that you consider our Manzoni line. Their fabrics are excellent, primarily from Italian Mills, and the construction of the suit is excellent. Another option is a nice custom suit in a style and fabric of your choice for $550 - $650.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

The Windsor Knot

Question: How do you effectively dimple your tie, when wearing the Windsor knot? Thanks, William

Reply
: To dimple your tie when making a Windsor knot, slide your index finger through the knot as you are pulling the blade of the tie through for the final time. While doing so press down on the center of the blade to form the dimple and pull up the sides with your thumb and middle finger. A little practice and your dimples will be the envy of every fair maiden. Let me know how successful you are.

Dressing for the Casual Christmas Party


Question: I'm a tall guy 6'4", how should I dress for an office Christmas party, where the dress code is 'elegantly casual'?

Reply:
Tall guys are lucky, they have a lot more room to show off their good taste in clothing. Elegant casual is fun. Wear a nice sport jacket with a check to deemphasize your height. Coordinate with a nice knit top; a 3 button polo or a low neck mock neck sweater but definitely not a high necked turtle neck. An open collar sport shirt will work as well. Pants should be dressy and contrasting. Do not wear bright colors!